Manet’s Civil Wars

In June 1864, the painter Édouard Manet was trying to recover from the brutality of the critics’ response to his Salon entries that January. This had followed on the heels of being treated as a laughingstock the year before when he exhibited a painting that became infamous in Paris, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Luncheon on the Grass), at the Salon des Refusés (the Salon of the Refused). Despite his desire to be accepted by the academic community, Manet found himself described as a radical artist, ignorant of the basic tenets of art. Somewhat bewildered, he was searching for a subject that could revive his reputation and ensure his admission into the next Salon.

Édouard Manet, Le Déjeuner sur L’herbe, 1863

What was the Salon?

In today’s art scene with its myriad pathways for exhibiting, the importance and power of the Salon is hard to comprehend. Begun in the early 1800s to show off the work of academic prize winners in the Louvre’s Salon de Carré (hence its name), by the 1860s it had become essentially the only exhibition in Paris that mattered. If you were a young artist, you had to be accepted to the annual Salon to receive any kind of notice. An academic jury consisting of members of the Ecole de Beaux-Arts and prizewinning artists from previous Salons served as either your gateway to a future in art or your roadblock. The judges expected paintings with historical, uplifting subject matter or scenes from mythology. All submissions were expected to be “skilled,” in other words, have a polished, finished appearance.

Édouard Dantan, A Corner of the Salon

Unfortunately, acceptance to an annual Salon was only the first step. Where and how your work was hung in its many rooms also mattered.  In the 19th century, artworks were displayed in rows stacked up along the walls. A small painting hung high near a doorway would never attract notice, while a centrally placed work in a grand room meant a great deal to an artist’s reputation.

The Battle

While preparing for the annual family vacation along the Normandy coast of France, Manet read in the Paris newspapers about an exciting naval battle of American ships that had just taken place off the harbor of Cherbourg. In one of the most important sea battles of the American Civil War, the Union’s USS Kearsage, which had crossed the Atlantic on a mission to sink one ship — the Confederate navy’s CSS Alabama — finally caught it.

The Alabama had been secretly built in Liverpool (the shipbuilders claimed it was a trader for Turkey) because the British government was officially neutral and had to conceal its support for the Confederacy. In reality, the speedy cruiser was designed as a raider to disrupt Union naval and merchant ships traveling between the United States and Europe. After adding its British-made guns in the Azores, it went directly into action. Its commission, according to Captain Raphael Semmes of the Confederate States Navy, was “to burn, sink and destroy the commerce of the United States.”

Sinking of USS Hatteras by CSS Alabama, January 1863.

While Americans learn in school about the famous battle between the ironclads the Monitor and the Merrimack, the Alabama’s raids cost the Union far more in ships and dollars than anything the Merrimack (which the Confederates rechristened the CSS Virginia) was ever able to accomplish. Before the Kearsage found it, the Alabama had already sunk 65 Union ships. Its voyages took it all over the world, raiding American trading ships from Newfoundland to South Africa to the Indian Ocean. London papers celebrated its captain and his successes. Despite flying the Stars and Bars, at the time of this battle off the French coast the Alabama had never been in a Confederate port.  A dozen Union Navy ships had been searching for it fruitlessly for almost two years.

Captain Raphael Semmes aboard the CSS Alabama

The Kearsage was able to trap the Alabama when its captain learned the Confederate ship was stuck in the port of Cherbourg for repairs.  The Union ship lurked offshore for days awaiting the Alabama’s attempt to escape. As soon as it slipped out and reached international waters, the Kearsage swooped in. First from a mile away, then from less than 500 yards apart, the ships circled each other, firing cannons as quickly as possible. Both boats would end up seriously damaged.

The battle was over in little more than an hour. The sinking Alabama was forced to surrender after a direct hit to its engine room paralyzed the ship and caused it to take on water. She went down to the bottom of the English Channel, taking more than 25 crewmen with her.

Spectators on a boat

From the cliffs, French seaside vacationers watched the battle. Their number has been estimated to be as many as 19,000. For the onlookers, it was an exciting entertainment with cannons providing fireworks. Vendors sold refreshments, telescopes, and binoculars. Some spectators watched from hired boats to get closer to the thrills. A wealthy Englishman vacationing nearby brought his children out in the harbor to enjoy the battle on the family yacht. He ended up a participant in the event when he took aboard 41 survivors of the sinking Alabama, including its captain and officers. He later smuggled them across the Channel to England so they could avoid capture by the Union navy.

Sketch sent to Manet’s mother in a letter from Brazil, 1848

Édouard Manet read the newspaper reports and knew he had found his next subject. Unlike most Frenchmen (their nation was never known as a great naval power), the artist had some real knowledge of the sea. When he was 16, after many arguments, he convinced his parents to allow him to seek a naval commission (rather than follow his father into law). To gain experience and prepare for the exams, he booked passage on the Havre-et-Guadeloupe, bound for Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The long voyage ended with Manet spending several months in Rio. During his time at sea and in South America, he sketched constantly. Onboard, he even became a drawing instructor to the other sailors. Much to his family’s dismay, the outcome of his voyages would be Manet’s determination to not be either a lawyer or naval officer, but an artist.

Manet, The Battle of the USS Kearsarge and the CSS Alabama, 1864

Excited by his subject, Manet worked quickly. His large oil painting, The Battle of the USS Kearsarge and the CSS Alabama, was finished in July, less than a month after the event.  At its center, one sees the Alabama burning and beginning to sink. At the bottom, a small French boat is preparing to take on some survivors. The victorious USS Kearsage is hidden by smoke on the left, proudly flying the Stars and Stripes. Off in the distance at the right, one can see the wealthy Englishman’s yacht, soon to take the captain and his officers to safety.

Manet is often called “the father of Modern Art,” but is Manet’s approach in this painting “modern?” The colors are naturalistic and not terribly inventive, and the subject matter – a naval battle – was a standard academic subject. However, the high horizon of the picture is a distinctly modern approach to a seascape, probably influenced by the Japanese prints that had begun arriving in Paris and capturing the enthusiasm of the art world. What is most modern is the exciting brushwork seen in the ocean, clouds, and smoke that would later be the hallmark of works called “impressionistic.”

Detail, Battle of the USS Kearsage and the CSS Alabama

Still, it is hard not to conclude that Manet’s painting of the naval battle, done entirely from his imagination, is not much more than a talented painter’s approach to a scene from another nation’s civil war; a Romantic entertainment for a French audience seen from a safe distance. It was, indeed, something Manet could reasonably expect would be acceptable in a future Salon.

What Manet could not possibly know is that this painting would take on new meaning very soon. The comfortable lives of Parisians were about to dramatically upended by what Manet’s beloved Goya called “The Disasters of War.”

Prelude to War

Fairgrounds at Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1867

Three years later, in 1867, the French celebrated the successes of their Second Empire with a world’s fair that drew 9 million visitors. The Exposition Universelle was held to bring in crowds from around the globe to see the results of a nearly twenty-year process to turn Paris into a modern city.

Adolphe Yvon, Napoléon III presents Baron Haussmann with the city plan, 1865.

In 1848, Napoleon III came to power with the promise of ‘making France great again.’ Two years later, after installing himself as Emperor, he authorized Baron Haussmann, a ruthless government administrator, to begin his most ambitious project — a gigantic program of urban renewal in Paris.

Fascinated with building, the Emperor met with his deputy almost every day to strategize and make plans. Tens of thousands of workers were hired. Entire medieval neighborhoods were torn down, their foul sewers replaced with modern, hygienic systems. Instead of hundreds of tiny, narrow streets (some only 3 feet wide), the grand boulevards of the Paris we know today, like the wide, tree-lined Champs-Elysée, were built along with many public parks across the capital. The new network of boulevards and parks served to provide open air and easy movement around the city.  Napoleon III wanted to ensure that no citizen of Paris had to walk more than 10 minutes to get to a park.

Aerial view of Paris with the Arc de Triomphe at center.
Gustave Caillebotte, Paris Street, Rainy Day, 1877

But the street design had another purpose — to allow the French military to act quickly to prevent the neighborhood rebellions that had plagued Paris since the Revolution.  The narrow streets of the old neighborhoods made it easy for revolutionaries to set up fortified barricades that blocked police and soldiers, like those seen in Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People from 1830. That masterpiece celebrates a rebellion that ended the reign of King Charles X and inspired Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables. No wonder that, according to Haussmann, Emperor Napoleon III’s secret mission for urban renewal was “…the gutting of old Paris, of the neighborhood of riots, and of barricades, from one end to the other.”

Delacroix, Liberty Leading the People, 1830

In addition to the millions of visitors, The Exposition Universelle of 1867 welcomed more than 50,000 exhibitors from around the globe. In its guide, the French novelist Victor Hugo captured the celebratory spirit of the Fair: “Down with war! Let there be alliance! Concord! Unity!..”

Fairgoers lined up to take a ride on the elevator at Paris World’s Fair, 1867

In the hall that exhibited the “useful arts,” visitors could see the latest inventions – like the elevator, which fairgoers lined up to ride. But there was one exhibit that seemed out of tune with Hugo’s call for peace. The Prussian company Krupp displayed a huge cannon capable of firing 1,000-pound shells. The sign explained it was for the defense of their coastline. Little did the fairgoers suspect that those guns would be bombarding Paris three years later.

Krupp cannon on display at the Paris World’s Fair

It would take a series of political miscalculations by the French government and competing political factions within it to bring this to pass. Their missteps – none of which were inevitable — would drive the French first into a disastrous war with the German states, followed by a civil war in Paris’s streets. What Victor Hugo would later call “The Terrible Year” began in 1870.

The Franco-Prussian War

Despite the image France portrayed in their world’s fair in 1867, the imperial government of Napoleon III was in the midst of a political crisis.  The nearly paralyzed Legislature was split into factions, between the Emperor’s Bonapartists, Bourbons aiming to restore their dynasty, two groups calling for a republic (one moderate, one radical), along with other factions. Paris itself was mostly under the control of supporters of a new republic. Like many young intellectuals, Manet, Degas, Morisot, and the other young impressionists and writers in their circle were all fervent Republicans.

Fantin-Latour’s painting of Manet’s studio shows Manet at work with Renoir in hat, Zola looking to right, and Monet at far right, among others in their circle.

As his popularity waned, the Emperor began looking for a foreign victory to boost and unify the country. While his generals were supremely confident, unbeknownst to him, the morale of the army was low. Across the country, France was plagued by small rebellions that the army had to put down. Many soldiers resented that they were being called on to protect Napoleon III’s government from its own people. The national leadership in turn began to distrust ordinary soldiers and suspect that too many were sympathetic to the Republican opposition. In case of an internal rebellion in the military, the government chose to limit army resources.

Meanwhile, the neighboring Prussian army was growing and well-funded. In 1866, to the surprise of the French, Prussia defeated Austria. While France had been the dominant force on the continent for most of the 19th century, the balance of power in Europe was shifting.

Prussia celebrates victory over Austria in Berlin, 1866

Then in 1868, after a revolution in Spain, it appeared that a Prussian prince was about to take their throne. This turn of events was intolerable to the French. They protested to the Prussian king, Wilhelm I, who did back down. But this did not satisfy the French.

Angered by Prussian imperialism, this international incident unified the French people — as Napoleon III hoped. To build on their renewed patriotism, his government pushed its luck by demanding that the Prussian king swear in writing that Prussia would never try such a takeover again.

It was then that President Otto van Bismarck decided to trick the French into a war. On behalf of Prussia, he sent a response that he later described as “a red flag to the Gallic bull.”

The French government and its people took the bait. Insulted by the letter, citizens took to the streets and called for war.  Overconfident, the nation of Napoleon could not imagine anything but a quick victory over the Prussians.

Thus, an entirely avoidable war was declared on July 19, 1870. Parisians celebrated in the street, convinced that their army would soon be in Berlin.

From the start, the confident but unprepared French armies met a bewildering series of defeats. When they lined up along the border in Alsace-Lorraine, they found a half million Prussian soldiers waiting for them. By August, half the French army was surrounded and the other half in retreat. Their Napoleonic tactics proved to be outdated, and their firepower was no match for the huge cannons of the Prussians, so recently displayed at the Paris Exposition Universelle. In September, Napoleon III, who led the forces himself at the disastrous Battle of Sedan, was taken prisoner by the Prussians and forced to abdicate.

De Neuville, The Cemetery of Saint-Privat, 1881 – a tragic French loss in August 1870

Rather than surrendering to Prussia, the French government announced the end of the Second Empire and declared itself a republic. The Imperial family secretly fled from the Tuileries Palace and were soon in exile across the Channel. Angry crowds broke into government buildings and tore down any symbols of the failed Empire they could get their hands on.

Poster celebrating the declaration of the Third Republic in Sept. 1870

Like so many of the French, Manet and his fellow artists were jubilant. They had long waited for this day. But their celebration would be short-lived because the new Republic’s armies did no better against the Prussians than those led by their fallen emperor. The enemy armies were now converging on Paris. It was time to prepare its defense.

End of Part One

When Clement Greenberg met Norman Rockwell

After World War II, the center of the art universe shifted and New York City replaced Paris as the home of the avant-garde. In Manhattan’s downtown bars and studios, passions ran high. Arguments about art and ideas often turned into celebrated drunken brawls. Amidst the turbulent turf wars, one art critic reigned supreme – Clement Greenberg. His discovery of Jackson Pollock led to the rise of Abstract Expressionism as the dominant art form in the post-war art world. His opinions were followed intensely, even feared, by artists, dealers, and collectors.

Mercedes Matter, Willem de Kooning, Philip Guston, Frank O’Hara, and Elaine de Kooning at Cedar Tavern, NYC, 1960. [Photo: Arthur Swoger]

Yet, despite the New York School’s position as the foremost movement in Modern Art, if you asked most Americans in the 1950s to name their favorite artist, they would probably have said Norman Rockwell, the beloved illustrator of covers for the Saturday Evening Post. For decades, the Post had been the most popular magazine of its time. Self-proclaimed as “America’s Magazine,” its covers depicted an ideal small-town America, not unlike the New England towns where Rockwell spent most of his adult life. In fact, his models were often his neighbors. His covers were regularly turned into posters and found their way onto the walls of homes across the country.

Norman Rockwell, “The Discovery,” Saturday Evening Post, December 29, 1956

This frustrated Clement Greenberg, who was justifiably proud of the emergence of New York as the global center of art. In his best-known essay, “Avant-Garde and Kitsch,” he struggled to understand how such a strange state of affairs was possible and why the citizens of his country were not embracing their great cultural victory. At the end of its very first sentence, he almost calls out Rockwell by name:

“One and the same civilization produces simultaneously two such different things as a poem by T. S. Eliot and a Tin Pan Alley song, or a painting by Braque and a Saturday Evening Post cover.”

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Kokoschka’s Alma Mahler doll

A strange, life-size doll is at the center of one of the Modern era’s most bizarre episodes. Its inspiration was the sudden end of an intense love affair between the Expressionist painter Oskar Kokoschka and the fascinating Alma Mahler.

Born in 1879, Alma Maria Schindler grew up surrounded by the best of Viennese society. Her father was a noted painter; Crown Prince Rudolf was one of his patrons. While she would become a composer and a writer, it is her love affairs with some of the most important artists, architects, and composers of the 20th century that have kept her celebrity alive since her death in 1964. Continue reading

Father Ivan and his Children

Ivan Sutherland and his robot crawler, 1983

In 1982, Ivan Sutherland got on a six-legged walking robot he had built and took his first ride. His students at Carnegie Mellon Institute called the eight foot long machine “The Trojan Cockroach.” To Sutherland it was as an “electric animal,” which he made because he thought it would be fun. Fun has always been Sutherland’s inspiration.

When denied my minimum daily adult dose of technology, I get grouchy. I believe that technology is fun, especially when computers are involved, a sort of grand game or puzzle with ever so neat parts to fit together. I have turned down several lucrative administrative jobs because they would deny me that fun. If the technology you do isn’t fun for you, you may wish to seek other employment. Without the fun, none of us would go on.”

The Trojan Cockroach was the first computer controlled robot that could carry a human being. But it is merely a footnote in the life of the man known as “Father Ivan,” since he is the person who gave birth to computer graphics and who, along with his many students, helped usher in the Computer Age.

Sketchpad

Sketchpad demonstrated in 1963.

Computer graphics was born in 1962. Its twenty-four year old father, Ivan Sutherland, was then a graduate student at the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, and his child, who he named Sketchpad, was his doctoral thesis. Sutherland’s program for MIT’s TX2 computer enabled him to draw directly on its nine-inch cathode ray tube with a light pen. For the first time in history, digital images were created by hand and appeared as the artist was working on them (rather than in a printout hours later). Continue reading

Loïe Fuller: Artist and Inspiration

While at the Cleveland Art Museum earlier this month, my attention was caught by an impressive plaster head by Rodin. It was immediately familiar as a large scale version of one of the heads from his famous The Burghers of Calais, but I thought it even more moving in its own right. The marks of Rodin’s fingers as he created such a sorrowful expression were amplified by pencil marks and the traces of colored washes — I never knew Rodin did such things. But I was surprised a second time when I read the label and it said “Gift of Loïe Fuller.”

I was already aware that Loïe Fuller was an extraordinary woman. Could she be even more extraordinary than I knew?

Marie Louise Fuller was born in 1862 on a farm outside of Chicago. As a young girl, she was inspired to be an actress by Sarah Bernhardt. She found her truer calling while acting in a play, when she twirled her long white skirt in a way that suggested a rising butterfly. The audience loved it and soon she was performing across the country as a dancer in vaudeville, burlesque, and even Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show.  Known best for her free-spirited Serpentine dance, today she is considered one of the founders of Modern Dance despite never having taken any lessons. But it wasn’t until she was 30 and crossed the Atlantic that she became one of the most famous dancers in the world.

As Loïe Fuller, she became the toast of Paris when she opened her show at the Folies-Bergère in 1892. At the center of an empty dark stage, Fuller entered in a white silk costume of her own design and then flung the material out in ever-changing huge abstract forms. Unbeknownst to the audience, inside hundreds of yards of fabric, she had sewn in bamboo sticks to push out the shapes. Colored lights, manipulated with mirrors from the sides of the stage, illuminated the billowing forms. Audiences were mesmerized by the magical metamorphosis taking place before their eyes.

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Bernini’s Passionate Affair

Regular visitors to Florence’s Bargello, home to its great sculpture collection, know well the frustration of finding rooms, sometimes the whole second floor, closed. Imagine my shock in June to discover that not only was the second floor open but galleries I had never seen before. In one, amidst display cases with coins, was a treasure I didn’t know existed, but learned later was quite famous and considered perhaps Gianlorenzo Bernini’s finest portrait sculpture – his bust of Costanza Bonarelli. According to the label,

This celebrated bust is the most famous of Bernini’s portraits. It is a very ‘private’ image that he perhaps made for himself and kept in his home for a long time…

Gianlorenzo Bernini, Portrait of Costanza Bonarelli, marble, 1637-1638. Museo Nazionale del Bargello, Florence.

Costanza was the wife of one of Bernini’s assistants, when the artist was in his late thirties and working in Rome. He fell passionately in love with her and carried on an illicit affair.

Sensuality is a hallmark of Bernini’s work. The passion in his Ecstasy of Saint Teresa is well-known to every art history student. Gazing at his much more direct portrait of Costanza, it is not hard to share the feelings of the sculptor for this young woman. She seems to be portrayed just after a liaison. Her hair is disheveled, her dressing gown is wrinkled, unbuttoned, and hangs loosely across her breasts. One can easily imagine that her make-up is long gone. Costanza looks out with parted, sensual lips and seems a bit dazed.

Bonarelli was no servant girl, but a member of the noble Piccolomini family of Siena, whose members included two popes, the dukes of Amalfi, and the patron of Galileo. However, by the 1600s the fortunes of her family line had tumbled and, before she married, the young Costanza had received money from two religious fraternities to keep her from a life on the streets. Her husband, Matteo, began working for Bernini about two years before this sculpture was made in 1637 or 1638. At the time, Costanza was about 24 years old and had been married for five years.

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The Journey of Mario’s Legendary Father

Ancient burial caves of the Zuiganji Temple in Matsushima, JapanAround 1960, a small boy who liked to explore nature without a map was wandering in the forest near his village. He was frightened when he accidentally discovered the entrance to a cave in the woods. Later, he got up the courage to return alone from his house with a lantern. His decision to explore the cave’s passageways would take on greater meaning in the years to come.

The boy was Shigeru Miyamoto and he grew up to be one of the founding fathers of electronic game design. As a young man, he wanted to be a manga artist and went to college for art and design. After graduation, his father got him an interview at an old Japanese company that specialized in playing cards, but had begun to expand its offerings into electronic toys – Nintendo. Miyamoto brought children’s clothes hangers in the shape of animals that he had designed and convinced the company to hire its first artist.

A couple of years later, motivated by the huge success of video arcades, Nintendo built their own version of Space Invaders that failed dismally. Stuck with two thousand unsold arcade units, they turned to their artist and asked if he could come up with a better game. At this time, video arcades games, while popular, were little more than shapes shooting and attacking other shapes. But in 1982 that all changed when Nintendo released Miyamoto’s Donkey Kong. Donkey Kong was the first arcade game with a story and characters – a gorilla, the girl he kidnapped but loved, and a hero – a carpenter known in this game as “Mr. Video,” later “Jumpman,” and finally, “Mario” (named for the landlord of Nintendo’s warehouse in Seattle, Washington). Continue reading

Diary of an Affair: Picasso and Marie-Thérèse

As the sun set in Paris, on January 8, 1927, Pablo Picasso was walking past a fashionable department store when his eyes fell upon a young shopper. Immediately infatuated, the artist (then unhappily married and in his mid-forties) took Marie-Thérèse Walter by the arm and said, “I’m Picasso! You and I are going to do great things together!” She was confused by the man and unaware of who he might be. Picasso introduced himself by dragging her into a bookshop and showing her a book filled with reproductions of his paintings. Thus began a passionate affair and an enormously productive period for Picasso. Continue reading

Florence News: New Botticelli rooms open in Uffizi

The long awaited new Botticelli rooms at the Uffizi opened in mid-October after being closed for fifteen months. The heavy dark planked ceiling is gone and the Early Renaissance master’s works are now spread across three rooms with white walls and brighter lighting. While most paintings are still covered in glass, it is less obtrusive. Glare has been minimized.The most famous works, the Birth of Venus and Primavera, are given generous space and recessed into gallery walls.

In the new layout, all Botticelli’s works have been restored and given more space. There is a fresh feeling like a newly constructed home compared to the old dark and crowded spaces. While you can’t actually smell the new paint, you can still see the marks of the suction cups used to place the glass in front of the Birth of Venus.

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A Director’s tour of Florence’s new Duomo Museum

The opening of the Museo del Duomo in 2015. Photo: Andrea Paoletti

The opening of the Museo del Duomo in 2015. Photo: Andrea Paoletti

The reviews for Florence’s Museo dell’Opera del Duomo highly anticipated reopening in 2015 after an expansion and extensive renovation were enthusiastic. The Florentines were thrilled about finally having a truly 21st century museum in their city center. But when I made my first visit that November, my reaction was very different. I was stunned by the many unaesthetic choices made by its designers, left cold by its grand gestures, and particularly disturbed about how it had intentionally eliminated the possibility of intimate contact with so many of its iconic works – like Donatello’s Magdalene – something that was a hallmark of the old museum. This past summer I returned again, hoping that my initial reaction was simply shock at seeing big changes in an old favorite museum. Yet the second visit only reinforced my disappointment and frustration.

This Fall, however, I had an extraordinary opportunity to understand the philosophy behind the changes to the Museo dell’Opera by joining a tour given to Museum Studies students. The leader of the tour was none other than its Director, Monsignor Timothy Verdon, who, I came to learn, was behind all of the design decisions for the new museum. If anyone could convince me of the wisdom of these changes – this was the man.

Monsignor Timothy Verdon

Monsignor Timothy Verdon

Timothy Verdon has had an extraordinary career. While originally from New Jersey, he has lived and worked in Florence for more than half a century. An expert on sacred art, with a PhD in Art History from Yale University, he has curated important exhibits and written many books on the subject. Today, besides being Director of the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, he teaches at Stanford University’s Florence campus and is the Canon of the Florence Cathedral complex, which includes the Baptistry, Giotto’s Campanile (or Bell Tower), and the Duomo.

Our group met the Director in the lobby, which remains at the old entrance to the Museum. Msgr. Verdon greeted us with a sweet and friendly smile, acknowledging his enthusiastic introduction by a faculty member with endearing modesty. He began the tour by explaining the goals of the renovation.  His words revealed the central role he had played in developing its new vision. “My vision” was to re-connect the museum with the historical sites of the Cathedral piazza. He pointed out that the Duomo museum is unlike a typical museum, since almost all of its art is from one place – the buildings of the Piazza del Duomo — the same place where it is shown. Thus, unlike almost any other major world museum, it provides a unique opportunity to talk about the place itself and to have what Verdon called a ‘narrative.’

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