Manet’s Civil Wars

In June 1864, the painter Édouard Manet was trying to recover from the brutality of the critics’ response to his Salon entries that January. This had followed on the heels of being treated as a laughingstock the year before when he exhibited a painting that became infamous in Paris, Le Déjeuner sur l’herbe (Luncheon on the Grass), at the Salon des Refusés (the Salon of the Refused). Despite his desire to be accepted by the academic community, Manet found himself described as a radical artist, ignorant of the basic tenets of art. Somewhat bewildered, he was searching for a subject that could revive his reputation and ensure his admission into the next Salon.

Édouard Manet, Le Déjeuner sur L’herbe, 1863

What was the Salon?

In today’s art scene with its myriad pathways for exhibiting, the importance and power of the Salon is hard to comprehend. Begun in the early 1800s to show off the work of academic prize winners in the Louvre’s Salon de Carré (hence its name), by the 1860s it had become essentially the only exhibition in Paris that mattered. If you were a young artist, you had to be accepted to the annual Salon to receive any kind of notice. An academic jury consisting of members of the Ecole de Beaux-Arts and prizewinning artists from previous Salons served as either your gateway to a future in art or your roadblock. The judges expected paintings with historical, uplifting subject matter or scenes from mythology. All submissions were expected to be “skilled,” in other words, have a polished, finished appearance.

Édouard Dantan, A Corner of the Salon

Unfortunately, acceptance to an annual Salon was only the first step. Where and how your work was hung in its many rooms also mattered.  In the 19th century, artworks were displayed in rows stacked up along the walls. A small painting hung high near a doorway would never attract notice, while a centrally placed work in a grand room meant a great deal to an artist’s reputation.

The Battle

While preparing for the annual family vacation along the Normandy coast of France, Manet read in the Paris newspapers about an exciting naval battle of American ships that had just taken place off the harbor of Cherbourg. In one of the most important sea battles of the American Civil War, the Union’s USS Kearsage, which had crossed the Atlantic on a mission to sink one ship — the Confederate navy’s CSS Alabama — finally caught it.

The Alabama had been secretly built in Liverpool (the shipbuilders claimed it was a trader for Turkey) because the British government was officially neutral and had to conceal its support for the Confederacy. In reality, the speedy cruiser was designed as a raider to disrupt Union naval and merchant ships traveling between the United States and Europe. After adding its British-made guns in the Azores, it went directly into action. Its commission, according to Captain Raphael Semmes of the Confederate States Navy, was “to burn, sink and destroy the commerce of the United States.”

Sinking of USS Hatteras by CSS Alabama, January 1863.

While Americans learn in school about the famous battle between the ironclads the Monitor and the Merrimack, the Alabama’s raids cost the Union far more in ships and dollars than anything the Merrimack (which the Confederates rechristened the CSS Virginia) was ever able to accomplish. Before the Kearsage found it, the Alabama had already sunk 65 Union ships. Its voyages took it all over the world, raiding American trading ships from Newfoundland to South Africa to the Indian Ocean. London papers celebrated its captain and his successes. Despite flying the Stars and Bars, at the time of this battle off the French coast the Alabama had never been in a Confederate port.  A dozen Union Navy ships had been searching for it fruitlessly for almost two years.

Captain Raphael Semmes aboard the CSS Alabama

The Kearsage was able to trap the Alabama when its captain learned the Confederate ship was stuck in the port of Cherbourg for repairs.  The Union ship lurked offshore for days awaiting the Alabama’s attempt to escape. As soon as it slipped out and reached international waters, the Kearsage swooped in. First from a mile away, then from less than 500 yards apart, the ships circled each other, firing cannons as quickly as possible. Both boats would end up seriously damaged.

The battle was over in little more than an hour. The sinking Alabama was forced to surrender after a direct hit to its engine room paralyzed the ship and caused it to take on water. She went down to the bottom of the English Channel, taking more than 25 crewmen with her.

Spectators on a boat

From the cliffs, French seaside vacationers watched the battle. Their number has been estimated to be as many as 19,000. For the onlookers, it was an exciting entertainment with cannons providing fireworks. Vendors sold refreshments, telescopes, and binoculars. Some spectators watched from hired boats to get closer to the thrills. A wealthy Englishman vacationing nearby brought his children out in the harbor to enjoy the battle on the family yacht. He ended up a participant in the event when he took aboard 41 survivors of the sinking Alabama, including its captain and officers. He later smuggled them across the Channel to England so they could avoid capture by the Union navy.

Sketch sent to Manet’s mother in a letter from Brazil, 1848

Édouard Manet read the newspaper reports and knew he had found his next subject. Unlike most Frenchmen (their nation was never known as a great naval power), the artist had some real knowledge of the sea. When he was 16, after many arguments, he convinced his parents to allow him to seek a naval commission (rather than follow his father into law). To gain experience and prepare for the exams, he booked passage on the Havre-et-Guadeloupe, bound for Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. The long voyage ended with Manet spending several months in Rio. During his time at sea and in South America, he sketched constantly. Onboard, he even became a drawing instructor to the other sailors. Much to his family’s dismay, the outcome of his voyages would be Manet’s determination to not be either a lawyer or naval officer, but an artist.

Manet, The Battle of the USS Kearsarge and the CSS Alabama, 1864

Excited by his subject, Manet worked quickly. His large oil painting, The Battle of the USS Kearsarge and the CSS Alabama, was finished in July, less than a month after the event.  At its center, one sees the Alabama burning and beginning to sink. At the bottom, a small French boat is preparing to take on some survivors. The victorious USS Kearsage is hidden by smoke on the left, proudly flying the Stars and Stripes. Off in the distance at the right, one can see the wealthy Englishman’s yacht, soon to take the captain and his officers to safety.

Manet is often called “the father of Modern Art,” but is Manet’s approach in this painting “modern?” The colors are naturalistic and not terribly inventive, and the subject matter – a naval battle – was a standard academic subject. However, the high horizon of the picture is a distinctly modern approach to a seascape, probably influenced by the Japanese prints that had begun arriving in Paris and capturing the enthusiasm of the art world. What is most modern is the exciting brushwork seen in the ocean, clouds, and smoke that would later be the hallmark of works called “impressionistic.”

Detail, Battle of the USS Kearsage and the CSS Alabama

Still, it is hard not to conclude that Manet’s painting of the naval battle, done entirely from his imagination, is not much more than a talented painter’s approach to a scene from another nation’s civil war; a Romantic entertainment for a French audience seen from a safe distance. It was, indeed, something Manet could reasonably expect would be acceptable in a future Salon.

What Manet could not possibly know is that this painting would take on new meaning very soon. The comfortable lives of Parisians were about to dramatically upended by what Manet’s beloved Goya called “The Disasters of War.”

Prelude to War

Fairgrounds at Exposition Universelle, Paris, 1867

Three years later, in 1867, the French celebrated the successes of their Second Empire with a world’s fair that drew 9 million visitors. The Exposition Universelle was held to bring in crowds from around the globe to see the results of a nearly twenty-year process to turn Paris into a modern city.

Adolphe Yvon, Napoléon III presents Baron Haussmann with the city plan, 1865.

In 1848, Napoleon III came to power with the promise of ‘making France great again.’ Two years later, after installing himself as Emperor, he authorized Baron Haussmann, a ruthless government administrator, to begin his most ambitious project — a gigantic program of urban renewal in Paris.

Fascinated with building, the Emperor met with his deputy almost every day to strategize and make plans. Tens of thousands of workers were hired. Entire medieval neighborhoods were torn down, their foul sewers replaced with modern, hygienic systems. Instead of hundreds of tiny, narrow streets (some only 3 feet wide), the grand boulevards of the Paris we know today, like the wide, tree-lined Champs-Elysée, were built along with many public parks across the capital. The new network of boulevards and parks served to provide open air and easy movement around the city.  Napoleon III wanted to ensure that no citizen of Paris had to walk more than 10 minutes to get to a park.

Aerial view of Paris with the Arc de Triomphe at center.
Gustave Caillebotte, Paris Street, Rainy Day, 1877

But the street design had another purpose — to allow the French military to act quickly to prevent the neighborhood rebellions that had plagued Paris since the Revolution.  The narrow streets of the old neighborhoods made it easy for revolutionaries to set up fortified barricades that blocked police and soldiers, like those seen in Delacroix’s Liberty Leading the People from 1830. That masterpiece celebrates a rebellion that ended the reign of King Charles X and inspired Victor Hugo’s Les Misérables. No wonder that, according to Haussmann, Emperor Napoleon III’s secret mission for urban renewal was “…the gutting of old Paris, of the neighborhood of riots, and of barricades, from one end to the other.”

Delacroix, Liberty Leading the People, 1830

In addition to the millions of visitors, The Exposition Universelle of 1867 welcomed more than 50,000 exhibitors from around the globe. In its guide, the French novelist Victor Hugo captured the celebratory spirit of the Fair: “Down with war! Let there be alliance! Concord! Unity!..”

Fairgoers lined up to take a ride on the elevator at Paris World’s Fair, 1867

In the hall that exhibited the “useful arts,” visitors could see the latest inventions – like the elevator, which fairgoers lined up to ride. But there was one exhibit that seemed out of tune with Hugo’s call for peace. The Prussian company Krupp displayed a huge cannon capable of firing 1,000-pound shells. The sign explained it was for the defense of their coastline. Little did the fairgoers suspect that those guns would be bombarding Paris three years later.

Krupp cannon on display at the Paris World’s Fair

It would take a series of political miscalculations by the French government and competing political factions within it to bring this to pass. Their missteps – none of which were inevitable — would drive the French first into a disastrous war with the German states, followed by a civil war in Paris’s streets. What Victor Hugo would later call “The Terrible Year” began in 1870.

The Franco-Prussian War

Despite the image France portrayed in their world’s fair in 1867, the imperial government of Napoleon III was in the midst of a political crisis.  The nearly paralyzed Legislature was split into factions, between the Emperor’s Bonapartists, Bourbons aiming to restore their dynasty, two groups calling for a republic (one moderate, one radical), along with other factions. Paris itself was mostly under the control of supporters of a new republic. Like many young intellectuals, Manet, Degas, Morisot, and the other young impressionists and writers in their circle were all fervent Republicans.

Fantin-Latour’s painting of Manet’s studio shows Manet at work with Renoir in hat, Zola looking to right, and Monet at far right, among others in their circle.

As his popularity waned, the Emperor began looking for a foreign victory to boost and unify the country. While his generals were supremely confident, unbeknownst to him, the morale of the army was low. Across the country, France was plagued by small rebellions that the army had to put down. Many soldiers resented that they were being called on to protect Napoleon III’s government from its own people. The national leadership in turn began to distrust ordinary soldiers and suspect that too many were sympathetic to the Republican opposition. In case of an internal rebellion in the military, the government chose to limit army resources.

Meanwhile, the neighboring Prussian army was growing and well-funded. In 1866, to the surprise of the French, Prussia defeated Austria. While France had been the dominant force on the continent for most of the 19th century, the balance of power in Europe was shifting.

Prussia celebrates victory over Austria in Berlin, 1866

Then in 1868, after a revolution in Spain, it appeared that a Prussian prince was about to take their throne. This turn of events was intolerable to the French. They protested to the Prussian king, Wilhelm I, who did back down. But this did not satisfy the French.

Angered by Prussian imperialism, this international incident unified the French people — as Napoleon III hoped. To build on their renewed patriotism, his government pushed its luck by demanding that the Prussian king swear in writing that Prussia would never try such a takeover again.

It was then that President Otto van Bismarck decided to trick the French into a war. On behalf of Prussia, he sent a response that he later described as “a red flag to the Gallic bull.”

The French government and its people took the bait. Insulted by the letter, citizens took to the streets and called for war.  Overconfident, the nation of Napoleon could not imagine anything but a quick victory over the Prussians.

Thus, an entirely avoidable war was declared on July 19, 1870. Parisians celebrated in the street, convinced that their army would soon be in Berlin.

From the start, the confident but unprepared French armies met a bewildering series of defeats. When they lined up along the border in Alsace-Lorraine, they found a half million Prussian soldiers waiting for them. By August, half the French army was surrounded and the other half in retreat. Their Napoleonic tactics proved to be outdated, and their firepower was no match for the huge cannons of the Prussians, so recently displayed at the Paris Exposition Universelle. In September, Napoleon III, who led the forces himself at the disastrous Battle of Sedan, was taken prisoner by the Prussians and forced to abdicate.

De Neuville, The Cemetery of Saint-Privat, 1881 – a tragic French loss in August 1870

Rather than surrendering to Prussia, the French government announced the end of the Second Empire and declared itself a republic. The Imperial family secretly fled from the Tuileries Palace and were soon in exile across the Channel. Angry crowds broke into government buildings and tore down any symbols of the failed Empire they could get their hands on.

Poster celebrating the declaration of the Third Republic in Sept. 1870

Like so many of the French, Manet and his fellow artists were jubilant. They had long waited for this day. But their celebration would be short-lived because the new Republic’s armies did no better against the Prussians than those led by their fallen emperor. The enemy armies were now converging on Paris. It was time to prepare its defense.

End of Part One

When Clement Greenberg met Norman Rockwell

After World War II, the center of the art universe shifted and New York City replaced Paris as the home of the avant-garde. In Manhattan’s downtown bars and studios, passions ran high. Arguments about art and ideas often turned into celebrated drunken brawls. Amidst the turbulent turf wars, one art critic reigned supreme – Clement Greenberg. His discovery of Jackson Pollock led to the rise of Abstract Expressionism as the dominant art form in the post-war art world. His opinions were followed intensely, even feared, by artists, dealers, and collectors.

Mercedes Matter, Willem de Kooning, Philip Guston, Frank O’Hara, and Elaine de Kooning at Cedar Tavern, NYC, 1960. [Photo: Arthur Swoger]

Yet, despite the New York School’s position as the foremost movement in Modern Art, if you asked most Americans in the 1950s to name their favorite artist, they would probably have said Norman Rockwell, the beloved illustrator of covers for the Saturday Evening Post. For decades, the Post had been the most popular magazine of its time. Self-proclaimed as “America’s Magazine,” its covers depicted an ideal small-town America, not unlike the New England towns where Rockwell spent most of his adult life. In fact, his models were often his neighbors. His covers were regularly turned into posters and found their way onto the walls of homes across the country.

Norman Rockwell, “The Discovery,” Saturday Evening Post, December 29, 1956

This frustrated Clement Greenberg, who was justifiably proud of the emergence of New York as the global center of art. In his best-known essay, “Avant-Garde and Kitsch,” he struggled to understand how such a strange state of affairs was possible and why the citizens of his country were not embracing their great cultural victory. At the end of its very first sentence, he almost calls out Rockwell by name:

“One and the same civilization produces simultaneously two such different things as a poem by T. S. Eliot and a Tin Pan Alley song, or a painting by Braque and a Saturday Evening Post cover.”

Continue reading

Kokoschka’s Alma Mahler doll

A strange, life-size doll is at the center of one of the Modern era’s most bizarre episodes. Its inspiration was the sudden end of an intense love affair between the Expressionist painter Oskar Kokoschka and the fascinating Alma Mahler.

Born in 1879, Alma Maria Schindler grew up surrounded by the best of Viennese society. Her father was a noted painter; Crown Prince Rudolf was one of his patrons. While she would become a composer and a writer, it is her love affairs with some of the most important artists, architects, and composers of the 20th century that have kept her celebrity alive since her death in 1964. Continue reading

Florence News: New Botticelli rooms open in Uffizi

The long awaited new Botticelli rooms at the Uffizi opened in mid-October after being closed for fifteen months. The heavy dark planked ceiling is gone and the Early Renaissance master’s works are now spread across three rooms with white walls and brighter lighting. While most paintings are still covered in glass, it is less obtrusive. Glare has been minimized.The most famous works, the Birth of Venus and Primavera, are given generous space and recessed into gallery walls.

In the new layout, all Botticelli’s works have been restored and given more space. There is a fresh feeling like a newly constructed home compared to the old dark and crowded spaces. While you can’t actually smell the new paint, you can still see the marks of the suction cups used to place the glass in front of the Birth of Venus.

Continue reading

A Director’s tour of Florence’s new Duomo Museum

The opening of the Museo del Duomo in 2015. Photo: Andrea Paoletti

The opening of the Museo del Duomo in 2015. Photo: Andrea Paoletti

The reviews for Florence’s Museo dell’Opera del Duomo highly anticipated reopening in 2015 after an expansion and extensive renovation were enthusiastic. The Florentines were thrilled about finally having a truly 21st century museum in their city center. But when I made my first visit that November, my reaction was very different. I was stunned by the many unaesthetic choices made by its designers, left cold by its grand gestures, and particularly disturbed about how it had intentionally eliminated the possibility of intimate contact with so many of its iconic works – like Donatello’s Magdalene – something that was a hallmark of the old museum. This past summer I returned again, hoping that my initial reaction was simply shock at seeing big changes in an old favorite museum. Yet the second visit only reinforced my disappointment and frustration.

This Fall, however, I had an extraordinary opportunity to understand the philosophy behind the changes to the Museo dell’Opera by joining a tour given to Museum Studies students. The leader of the tour was none other than its Director, Monsignor Timothy Verdon, who, I came to learn, was behind all of the design decisions for the new museum. If anyone could convince me of the wisdom of these changes – this was the man.

Monsignor Timothy Verdon

Monsignor Timothy Verdon

Timothy Verdon has had an extraordinary career. While originally from New Jersey, he has lived and worked in Florence for more than half a century. An expert on sacred art, with a PhD in Art History from Yale University, he has curated important exhibits and written many books on the subject. Today, besides being Director of the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo, he teaches at Stanford University’s Florence campus and is the Canon of the Florence Cathedral complex, which includes the Baptistry, Giotto’s Campanile (or Bell Tower), and the Duomo.

Our group met the Director in the lobby, which remains at the old entrance to the Museum. Msgr. Verdon greeted us with a sweet and friendly smile, acknowledging his enthusiastic introduction by a faculty member with endearing modesty. He began the tour by explaining the goals of the renovation.  His words revealed the central role he had played in developing its new vision. “My vision” was to re-connect the museum with the historical sites of the Cathedral piazza. He pointed out that the Duomo museum is unlike a typical museum, since almost all of its art is from one place – the buildings of the Piazza del Duomo — the same place where it is shown. Thus, unlike almost any other major world museum, it provides a unique opportunity to talk about the place itself and to have what Verdon called a ‘narrative.’

Continue reading

Update on the Missing Botticelli

Botticelli St Augustine restored bannerIt was a stormy afternoon (not night), when I nervously entered Florence’s Ognissanti Church to check if Botticelli’s St. Augustine had finally returned. My last meeting had run late and I was out of breath. Tomorrow my flight was leaving at sunrise, so this would be my last chance. I walked at top speed nearly the whole way, because it was close to closing time. There was no time to take more than a few irresistible last looks at the city (Santa Maria Novella, the Arno).  Luckily, a thunderstorm had just ended, thinning the crowds of tourists, but the stone pavement was slippery in spots along the way.

For the past three years, I had made this pilgrimage, only to experience disappointment. Ognissanti, one of the important neighborhood parish churches of Florence, has quite a few treasures, like its beautifully restored, spectacular 15 foot tall crucifix by Giotto. It is also the final resting place of Sandro Botticelli, his tomb near the feet of his unrequited love, Simonetta Vespucci, the model for The Birth of Venus and other masterpieces. Visitors from around the world leave love notes addressed to the artist there.

But one of my favorite Botticelli frescoes, St. Augustine in his Study (1480), has been missing for years, its place taken by a mounted, fading color photocopy. Just across the aisle hangs a fresco designed to be the other half of a pair — Domenico Ghirlandaio’s St. Jerome in his Study (1480).  St. Jerome appears to be looking across at St. Augustine. Leaning his head in his hand, he seemed to, while trying to be philosophical, share my frustration looking across at the poor copy.

Domenico Ghirlandaio, St. Jerome in his Study (1480)

Domenico Ghirlandaio, St. Jerome in his Study,  1480

Continue reading

Vigée Le Brun’s unfortunate marriage

Lebrun,_Self-portraitThe odds were stacked against Élisabeth Vigée Le Brun, yet she became one of the most successful court portrait painters in France during the reign of Louis XVI. Many troubles would come her way during her life. But the worst may not have been the French Revolution, it may have been her husband.

Born in Paris in 1755, Élisabeth Vigée demonstrated great artistic promise as as a young girl. Her father, a pastel artist himself, told her, “You will be a painter, my child, if ever there was one.” Still, her application to train at the painter’s guild was denied because she was a female (even though her father was a member). Forced to learn at home, she set herself on a course that mirrored academic training by copying plaster casts and engravings. While her father helped with lessons, her mother took her to exhibitions and acted as her chaperon when the young Élisabeth visited homes to work on portraits.

By the age of 19, she already had a successful career. Too successful — she attracted the attention of the local authorities, who closed her studio down because she was not a member of the artist’s guild. To make matters worse, after her father’s untimely death when she was 12, her mother had married a wealthy jeweler who collected the young artist’s fees and was not eager to share them with her.

Young Self-Portrait

Young Self-Portrait, c. 1782?

Vigée managed to gain admission to the painter’s guild after they unsuspectingly exhibited her paintings at their annual exhibition in 1774. By then, the daughter (whom her mother once thought homely) had become a beautiful young woman who attracted not only commissions but the attentions of many important people, including Jean Baptiste Pierre Lebrun, the most successful art dealer in Paris. Le Brun was one of the first dealers to sell artworks as investments and was an innovator in making art a much more international trade.

Jean-Baptiste Pierre Le Brun (1748-1813), Self-Portrait, Salon of 1795

Jean-Baptiste Pierre Le Brun (1748-1813), Self-Portrait, Salon of 1795

According to Vigée, Le Brun invited her often to his mansion, which was filled with art. “I was enchanted at an opportunity of first hand acquaintance with…works of the great masters. M. Lebrun was so obliging as to lend me, for the purposes of copying some of his handsomest and most valuable paintings.”

To her surprise, in 1776, Le Brun asked her to marry him. Already a favorite portrait artist of Paris’s aristocratic women, she wondered if it was wise to give up the name by which she had become well known. But her home-life was becoming miserable. Her stepfather had retired, was becoming increasingly ill-tempered, and was hoarding her earnings.

Continue reading

The Monk and the Missing Botticelli: A Florence Story

botticelli closeup

One of the treasures of the Ognissanti Church in Florence has been missing for years. Ognissanti, known for being the burial place of Sandro Botticelli and Amerigo Vespucci, and for its huge and recently restored Giotto crucifix, is a pilgrimage site for art lovers and romantics. In 1480, the Vespucci family commissioned a pair of frescos that face each other across the main nave:on the left, Saint Jerome at his desk, painted by Domenico Ghirlandaio; on the right, Saint Augustine in his study by Botticelli.

Domenico Ghirlandaio, St. Jerome in his Study.

Domenico Ghirlandaio, St. Jerome in his Study, 1480.

Sandro Botticelli, Saint Augustine in his Study

Sandro Botticelli, Saint Augustine in his Study, 1480.

Sadly, the Botticelli  is no longer there. In its place is a photograph of the fresco. For years now, whenever I visit Florence, I go to Ognissanti hoping to see the original fresco has returned, only to be disappointed. The print at this point is fading badly, its colors turning a pale blue like an old family Kodachrome.

While I always assumed the fresco was only temporarily removed for restoration, about a month ago I decided to investigate. On a cold February morning, I approached a monk who was huddled in a corner near the entrance, wrapped in his robes, a stocking cap under his hood. I recognized him from my previous visits as the guardian of the church. He appears to be Asian, possibly from the Philippines. Even though we have never talked, I had a fond feeling for him because I believed he was responsible for the lovely recorded religious music that fills the church.

I asked in my weak Italian, “the Botticelli fresco, is it being restored?” The question seemed to rouse him. Over the next ten minutes, I would get an earful from the monk in a mix of Italian and English.

“In restauro? (restoration?) That’s what they said. Two years ago! But it is not being restored at all.”

“What do you mean?”

“It is on tour of Japan to earn money for the state.”

Continue reading

Triumph and Travesty in Florence: Baptistry cleaned and Museum reopens

Baptistry before and during cleaning

Baptistry before and during cleaning

This fall, there is good news and bad news from Florence. Lovers of the city rejoiced during the last week of October when, just before the visit of Pope Francis, the scaffolding and giant canvas tarps around the Baptistry finally came down. Since February 2014, the nearly thousand year old Florence Baptistry has been wrapped and blocked from view while its walls were given their first top to bottom cleaning in seventy years. Like a giant gift box finally opened, all can finally see what has been missing from the heart of the city for almost two years.

The cleaned walls of the Florence Baptistry

The newly cleaned walls of the Florence Baptistry

The $2 million restoration was a huge undertaking not just because of the size of the building or its age, but also due to the variety of marble found on the Baptistry’s exterior. According to the Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore, which manages all the historic buildings in the piazza, its cladding ranges “…from Apuan [Carrara] marble to the oldest marble recycled from ancient Roman buildings and tombs.” Most difficult to handle of all is the green serpentine of Prato, a very fragile stone. Depending on the material, conservators used chemical softeners, sponges, scalpels and lasers along the eight sided building.

Florence-Duomo-4

Roman relief sculpture in Baptistry wall

Roman relief sculpture in Baptistry wall

Yet I am happy to report from a visit earlier this month that the results are simply spectacular. The white marble looks bright and fresh. It contrasts beautifully with the black and green marble, which now appear deep and resonant. The Baptistry’s designs seem crisper and more abstract than before – almost modern.  In comparison, the nearby 19th century facade of the Duomo’s entrance, cleaned not so long ago, seems not just overly complicated, but also tired and grimy.

Detail of Baptistry wall

Detail of Baptistry wall

Perhaps most shocking is the change in the Baptistry’s roof. In the past, it had a gray metallic color with what looked like some random splashes of whitewash.  Now, one can see that it is not made of lead at all but stark white marble.

Marble roof of the Baptistry

Marble roof of the Baptistry

The success of the restoration is good news to art and architecture lovers. Unfortunately, the news is not so good concerning the long awaited expansion and reopening of the Museo dell’Opera di Santa Maria del Fiore. The two and a half year renovation tripled the exhibition space of the museum and allowed for a complete reconsideration of its exhibits. It now has a great hall, the largest exhibition space in Florence, which features a life-size reconstruction of the original Medieval façade of the Duomo and the newly cleaned Baptistry doors by Lorenzo Ghiberti, “the Gates of Paradise”. Continue reading

Florence: Great Art Without the Crowds

Gozzoli-LProcession-BR800Everyone knows that there is great art in Florence, Italy.  What the Taj Mahal is to India, Big Ben to London, and the Eiffel Tower to Paris, the Uffizi, Accademia, and Duomo are to this Tuscan city.  Here throngs of tight-packed tourists from all over the world follow in the wake of their multilingual guides, anxious for a chance to finally see the Birth of Venus by Botticelli, Michelangelo’s David, and Brunelleschi’s Dome.  Unfortunately, the Birth of Venus is hidden by a pane of glass and so badly lit that it looks better in reproductions; the David is magnificent but the space around it usually packed with other viewers.  The dome of the Duomo is indeed fabulous outside and in, but disappointingly located in a cathedral from which most of the original decoration has been removed to a museum, now closed for renovation.

Yet Florence offers other treasures, less famous and far less crowded, but equally rewarding. In fact, although these works of art are not among those featured on 72-hour tours, they are easier to spend time viewing.  In particular, we recommend three under appreciated places to enjoy art in Florence: the Orsanmichele, the Magi Chapel of the Medici-Riccardi Palace, and the Bargello.  In all three, without reservations or long lines (without even an entry fee at Orsanmichele), you can spend the time it really takes to study and enjoy artwork in a peaceful setting.  The three little-known artists we highlight here are Orcagna (Andrea di Cione, c.1308-1368), Benozzo Gozzoli (c.1421-1497), and Desiderio da Settignano (c.1428-1464).

orsanichele.view

Orsanmichele, Florence

Orsanmichele, Florence

Florence’s Orsanmichele is a common tourist stop, but most groups come only for a look at the famous statues on the outside by Donatello, Verrocchio, and Giambologna (ironically, all copies).  Originally constructed as a place to store and sell grain, the ground floor was converted into a church in the 14th century.  Here Orcagna (the leading painter, sculptor, and architect of Florence at the time) was commissioned to create a tabernacle to house a sacred image of the Madonna and Child by Bernardo Daddi.  This painting replaced a fading fresco by an unknown artist, a picture of Orsanmichele,_interno,_tabernacolo_dell'orcagna_03the Virgin which had attracted its own following through miraculous powers. Not accidentally, Daddi’s masterpiece, known as the “Madonna della Grazie,” was completed in 1347, a year after the Black Death struck Florence.  It is a masterpiece of Italian Gothic painting, yet not as unique as the ornate structure that frames it.

The preservation and restoration of this tabernacle is so amazing that it seems to have been built in the Gothic revival style of the 19th century, not in the actual medieval period more than 650 years ago.  The marble glows, the inlays of glass and lapis lazuli sparkle, the gold accents glint, reflecting the gold leaf of the halos and throne on the painting it houses.  The Madonna seems to be enclosed in a tiny chapel of her own, a church within a church.  Intricate yet harmonious, the carvings intersperse religious scenes and figures with decorative patterns.  Orsanmichele,_interno,_tabernacolo_dell'orcagna_07.detail

The interior of the Orsanmichele is perfect for the quiet contemplation and appreciation of a Gothic masterpiece.  Perhaps because Florence is primarily known for Renaissance art, Orcagna’s tabernacle (and Daddi’s Madonna) remain overlooked gems.

Our next stop, however, takes us into the Renaissance and even into the palazzo of the patrons most associated with Renaissance Florence, the Medici.  The palace known today as the Medici-Riccardi, conceals within its massive walls — so typical of Florentine architecture — another uncrowded surprise.

Medici-Riccardi Palace

Medici-Riccardi Palace, Florence

Benozzo Gozzoli is far from a household name in the United States, even for art aficionados.  Yet this Medici palazzo owes its appeal to a single room decorated with his frescoes.  The walls of the “Chapel of the Magi” (1459-61) create a magical space where the three Wise Men — here interpreted as elderly, mature, and youthful kings — their courtly followers, horses, servants, and pet animals (including a cheetah) wend their leisurely way toward Bethlehem.  Dressed for display in the sumptuous brocades that made Florence wealthy, they pose attractively amidst a landscape of rocks, where a long cavalcade of of travelers climb and descend among picturesque hills and valleys.  In fact, with their handsome mounts and weapons, they seem more like nobles on their way to a hunt or a joust than the mystic scholars of the bible story.

In fact, Gozzoli, a pupil of Fra Angelico and an assistant to Ghiberti, incorporated several portraits in this scene which stretches around three walls of the small chapel.  Art historians don’t completely agree on the identifications, but it seems that the figure in black (below) is Cosimo the Elder (1389-1464), founder of the dynasty and patron of this work, on a modest donkey. The figure next to him, on the white horse, is his son Piero, father of Lorenzo di Medici.

Cosimo I (in black)

Cosimo I (in black)

Other identifications are less certain.  The young king has often been called an idealized portrait of Lorenzo the Magnificent, who was only a boy at the time.  Another boy in the cavalcade has been called Guiliano, his younger brother who was later killed in the Pazzi Conspiracy.

The fresco even includes portraits of the artist — Gozzoli himself — one wearing a red hat, and another holding up his hand as if to say he made this work.

The Bargello, Florence

The Bargello, Florence

The third site we recommend for art appreciation is the Bargello, Florence’s museum of sculpture.  The Bargello is to Florentine sculpture what the Uffizi is to Florence’s painting. In fact, many of its works were formerly part of the Uffizi Collection. Here you may recognize well-known masterpieces of the Renaissance by Donatello, Verrochio, and Michelangelo.  We recommend that you widen the scope of your discoveries to include the work of Desiderio da Settignano.

Settignano-Marietta-StrozziA Renaissance sculptor who attained popularity at about the same time that Gozzoli was painting the Chapel of the Magi, Desiderio is known for particularly graceful and sensitive portraits and relief sculptures.  At the Bargello, you will see his portrait of Maria Strozzi, a head of John the Baptist, and a beautiful Madonna and child — among other notable works.    Once you recognize his style, you will be able to identify other sculptures as well.

 

 

 

desiderio.stjohndesiderio.madonna

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of the three artists we have focused on here, Desiderio is best represented in collections outside of Italy – for instance, you can find his work in the National Gallery of Art, in Washington D.C.

Great art is everywhere in Florence; these are only a few examples of where to find it “off the beaten track.”  If you prefer to enjoy your art without crowds of tourists more intent on selfies than the masterpieces in front of them, we recommend venturing to one of these locations and immersing yourself in more relaxing art appreciation.